And the sail-away to top them all was setting off from New York City on the maiden U.S. voyage of Holland America's Eurodam.
All hands were on deck on this brilliantly beautiful September afternoon as the ship edged down the Hudson River past the city's landmarks. Hundreds of passengers leaned against the rail, taking in the shape of a skyline so iconic, it gives you chills. The ship eased onward, passing shoulder-to-shoulder buildings wedged in a tight nest of humanity and commerce.
Then, suddenly, there she was - the majestic lady with torch held high.
It took my breath away.
I hurriedly clicked some photos, then dashed to the ship's spa, where I had an appointment for a massage. I found Elvira, my Filipino masseuse, wiping away a tear.
"I just saw the Statue of Liberty," she said.
Ahoy, Eurodam.
The sail-away was a splendid start for this 10-day cruise of New England and Canadian ports. And it was a fitting salute to the Eurodam, which was launched in Europe in April. It's a splendid ship, accommodating 2,104 passengers and 925 crew members.
This midsize ship is a people-pleaser of masterly design. Laid out in an intriguing maze of pocket bars, lounges, and inviting public areas, it also scores well by offering three alternative restaurants, two swimming pools, a well-run spa, and a Culinary Arts Center for cooking demonstrations and wine-tastings. Although Holland America cruises are mid-priced, Eurodam competes well in swank appeal with high-end lines such as Regent, Silversea, and Crystal.
Eurodam is geared for Holland America's main age group - 50 and older. Children do sail on this line, but you won't find rock walls, skating rinks, and late-night parties. There's a Club HAL for kids. But on this sailing, the kids had just gone back to school, so the adult playground was all ours.
I liked the well-equipped, spacious gym, with plenty of treadmills and elliptical trainers looking out over the sea, and few people using them. The serene Greenhouse Spa is more expansive than most ship spas.
If massages, pedicures, and facials aren't your thing, you could buy a $150-a-week membership in the Hydrotherapy Suite, which was just the ticket for my tired muscles. The hydrotherapy pool, with back-soothing water jets, is the size of a small swimming pool. Membership also included steam rooms, the sauna, and my favorite - an ingenious ceramic lounge that conducted heat right into my poor ol' bones. I often nabbed one of these meltdown lounges to gaze out the window as the ship set sail.
Evenings came with lively offerings. The casino is flashy, with five blackjack tables, 126 slot machines, and plenty of elbow room. At the big Mainstage, passengers filled three tiers of seats to watch the entertainment crew launch tunes, taps and rib-ticklers.
The itinerary is a good pick for Indian summer and fall relaxation, especially with the paintbrush of fall color on sailings later than my Sept. 1 departure. This is a slacker's cruise - no one will quiz you on details of ports such as Newport, R.I., or Halifax or Sydney, Nova Scotia.
But I was apprehensive about the size of the ship and and sailing with more than 2,000 passengers. Sure enough, I got lost frequently at first - but on a ship, how far can you go? Soon I worked out my shipboard routine, including an afternoon stop at the Hydrotherapy Suite before heading for my sail-away spot - the Crow's Nest bar on Deck 11. I'd nestle into a comfy chair facing the panoramic windows to toast that day's port with the superbly mixed drink-of-the day. Lemon drops, mojitos, margaritas - the Filipino bartenders were masters.
I didn't even look for the main dining room until Day Three. Instead, I lazed my way along with casual dining in the Lido restaurant without having to get dressed up - now that's the sailor's life for me.
When I finally joined friends for dinner - yes, I did wear heels and a classy dress - I enjoyed it. The Rembrandt Dining Room is set on two levels, with a dramatic central atrium hung with wavelike sculptures. White tablecloths, comfortable contemporary chairs, well-spaced tables, and soft lighting made for pleasant dining and conversation.
Although it was fun discovering the ship's offerings - the Ocean Bar and its daily afternoon Trivia match, and the screening room where movies were shown daily - its size and design did not suit everyone. Older passengers complained about the long walk to "everything" and about getting lost.
On the Promenade decks, hallways zigzag around lounges, bars, shops, the Culinary Arts Center - it's a maze. But it's a handsome maze that artfully keeps people in small groups. I never had the sense that I shared the ship with more than 2,000 passengers.
Sailing on a new ship also meant upholstery and carpets were new and clean, and the decor was snappy, hung with contemporary art plus historic cruise photos on gangway walls. Equipped with the latest in stabilizers, Eurodam is the steadiest ship I've been on - even the night we caught some mighty swells off the Canadian coast.
My stateroom was also new and spiffy, with one of the best mattresses I have ever slept on. The bathroom had the nice surprise of a bathtub along with the shower. Overall, the cabin was slightly smaller than those I've had on high-end cruises.
The ship also upholds Holland America's reputation for paying attention to passengers who need assistance, including 30 wheelchair-accessible staterooms. I was impressed to see wheelchair-assisted passengers boarding ahead of the pack in New York. Marjorie Tripp, a pediatric cardiologist from Asheville, N.C., traveling with her 82-year-old mother, called that treatment "a wonderful bonus."
"Once we arrived, we were assigned someone who helped us until we were not only registered, but on the ship and seated in the Lido for lunch," Tripp said.
Many passengers, including Holland America regulars, were conscious of the line's value pricing. (Prices for the September 2009 10-day cruise start at $1,499 plus tax for an inside cabin). Sailing on the higher-end lines costs two to three times as much for a 10-day cruise.
Only the Eurodam's cuisine fell short of the mark. Frequently overcooked and sometimes served with odd sauces, it was inconsistent.
In the Rembrandt Dining Room, I was disappointed to be served a soggy taco shell on my Southwestern salad. But I could always count on the breakfast options in the Lido restaurant - yummy waffles; tasty muffins and bagels; fresh, cut-up fruit; and an omelet bar, plus the traditional egg-and-bacon options.
The Asian-themed Tamarind restaurant was superb and worth the extra $20.
No trip along the Canadian coast would be complete without grappling with a whole lobster, but that experience was available only on shore. I tackled mine on an excursion to Peggy's Cove, a picturesque, seaside village in Halifax, with help from the friendly Canadian guide.
I like taking excursions and seeing as much as possible, and this cruise was full of them - some better than others.
In Boston, I had a morning drink at the original Cheers bar, then trudged up Beacon Hill for the sights. The Cliff Walk along the water at Newport was crashing-coastal lovely. The Bay of Fundy, famous for tides that can rise as much as 55 feet, was a good side trip from the port of St. John. And two days in charming Quebec City gave me plenty of time to explore its curving streets and European style.
The crew was enthusiastic and helpful. They were proud of the ship, which was new to them, too.
Only one complaint resounded with a number of passengers - no passenger laundry rooms. So, on a 10-day cruise, you either have to hand-wash your clothes or pay them to do it. It costs $9 to dry clean a dress and $4 to launder slacks.
Unless, that is, you adopt the sartorial style of one interesting passenger, who wore an olive-green tarpaulin all 10 days. He belted the tarp, adorned it with an array of ascots, and kept his lower drapes mannerly with a small padlock fastened at knee level.
His explanation of the attire: "It keeps me warm."
It also kept his packing problems to a minimum.
Cruising for Fall Colors
Holland America's Eurodam is scheduled to sail Sept. 16 from New York on a 10-day Colors of Canada and New England cruise, with stops at Newport, R.I.; Boston; Bar Harbor, Maine; Halifax and Sydney, Nova Scotia; Prince Edward Island; and Saguenay, Quebec. The cruise disembarks in Quebec City. Costs start at $1,599 per person, plus tax, for an inside cabin.
Other Eurodam fall-colors cruises include a 10-day sailing from Quebec City on Sept. 6, ending in New York. Prices start at $1,499 per person, plus tax, for an inside cabin.
On Sept. 26, the Eurodam will set sail from Quebec City on a 14-day Atlantic Coast cruise, with prices starting at $1,599.
Holland America's Maasdam is scheduled to sail the New England and Canada coasts in October, including a seven-day cruise from Boston to Montreal on Oct. 3, starting at $1,399, and a 13-day Atlantic Coast cruise departing Montreal on Oct. 10, disembarking in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., starting at $1,199. The Maasdam is an older ship, so prices are slightly lower than on the Eurodam.
More information
www.hollandamerica.com 1-877-932-4259
- Anne Chalfant